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題 名 | 英國維多利亞時期(1837-1901)女性服飾束縛變革之探討=The Reformation of Women's Dress in Victorian Period(1837-1901): From Restraint to Liberalization |
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作 者 | 葉立誠; | 書刊名 | 實踐學報 |
卷 期 | 30 1999.06[民88.06] |
頁 次 | 頁51-106 |
分類號 | 538.12 |
關鍵詞 | 英國; 維多利亞時期; 女性; 服飾; 束縛; |
語 文 | 中文(Chinese) |
中文摘要 | 有關針對以「西方女性服飾束縛變革」為主題的研究,就目前國內外服飾界的研 究論文與專書而言,可說並未曾見過有以此相關主題,來進行有系統且深入的探討。由於這 種對服飾束縛變革探究的忽略,也因此造成今日我們在說明人類服飾穿著的行為;以及在解 釋西方服裝史變遷的發展,總是有許多的盲點無法準確的釋疑。 筆者有鑑於此,就多年來所蒐集到的一些西方原始史料文獻;以及個人長年所從事服飾變遷 研究的心得,希望藉由本次以英國維多利亞時期作為時代背景,所進行的「西方女性服飾束 縛變革」研究,能為人類衣飾文化理論的建構;以及西方服飾變遷發展的分析,提供一個有 價值的觀點。 筆者在本次研究範圍中,之所以會以西方的一段時期來作為探討對象,其主要用意是希望大 家在熱切關心「本土化」研究的今日,也別忘了我們每個人同樣也是地球村的一名公民。而 要成為一名國際公民,首要之道就是要能關切以及深入瞭解國際;以及不同地區的歷史文化 。 至於筆者之所以選擇英國維多利亞時期,來作為探討西方女性服飾束縛變革發展的主題,其 主要是考量到這個階段,正處在服飾束縛變革發展的關鍵轉折點,相信若透過對此時期的研 究,必能更清楚地一窺西方服飾束縛變革的真相之所在。 為了對本研究主題有一完整而系統的理解,本次研究特別設定五項研究問題做為研究核心。 經由各個章節以史學研究法則的文獻資料分析法、歸納法,進行深入研究分析之後,提出下 列五項研究心得: 一、社會改革團體對英國服飾束縛的變革確實產生影響。 二、美國服飾改革團體其所提出的服飾束縛變革,不僅是為了「行動上的方便」而已,還同 時考量到「女性地位的提昇」與「身體健康」兩項因素。 三、美國服飾改革團體對英國服飾束縛變革的發展確實造成影響。 四、 英國服飾改革團體中的「 Aesthetic Dress Group 」, 確實受到當時「 The Art & Crafts Movement 」所形成之「追求自由、自然審美觀」的美學風格影響而產生變革。 五、英國醫學界、媒體、廠商與展覽會對服飾束縛變革的推動,不僅是為了「行動上的方便 」,其最主要考量還是為了「健康」的目的。 |
英文摘要 | In respect of theses and discourses on dress development, whether domestic or foreign, there are rarely seen any intensive and systemic research on the topic about "the revolution of the restrained women's dress in the West". Lack of studies on this realm has confused modern readers to understand and interpret the human behavior for clothing, as well as to analyze the development of Western attire. The writer has collected much historical literature on Western dress especially in the Victorian period. Based on his intensive study for years, the writer wishes to construct a theory on clothing culture and to analyze the development of Western dress, and to provide some new and valuable concepts. The writer would rather choose a specific period in the Western history, especially the Victorian period, to become his research subject. The writer intends to explore the revolution of women's dress in the West. It is because that an "international" view is as important as a "domestic" mind in the global village. On the other hand, this specific period represented a turning point in the revolution of clothing. Based on the study in this period, it will present the historical fact on the revolution of the restrained women's dress in the West. This paper consists of five topics, to which the writer has responded with five discourses based on historical literature by analytical and inductive method. The conclusions are as follows: 1. Social innovationist had great impact on the revolution of women's restrained dress in England. 2. American innovationist on clothing asserted that the revolution of restrained dress was not only "for the convenience of motion" but also for the enhancement of female position and for the sake of health. 3. American innovationist on clothing had great impact on the development of dress revolution in England. 4. "Aesthetic Dress Group" among those English innovationist was influenced by "The Art & Crafts Movement", of which aesthetic fashion pursued for "nature and freedom". 5. Physicians, the media, and manufactures as well as many exhibitions had facilitated the dress revolution, not only for the convenience of motion but primarily for the sake of health. |
本系統中英文摘要資訊取自各篇刊載內容。