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題 名 | 臺灣地區手染服飾業商品染色加工技術改進及新商品開發計畫之三--臺灣地區手染服飾商品之染色堅牢度檢定及分析=The Fastness Ivestigation and Anahsis of Taiwan Hand-Dyeing Products |
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作 者 | 黃淑真; | 書刊名 | 臺灣手工業 |
卷 期 | 67 1998.07[民87.07] |
頁 次 | 頁90-101 |
分類號 | 488.9 |
關鍵詞 | 耐水洗; 耐摩擦; 耐日光; 堅牢度; 助劑; 精練; 固色; |
語 文 | 中文(Chinese) |
中文摘要 | 本次研究是一系列探討台灣地區手染服務業商品染色加工技術改進及新商品開發 計劃之第三篇。主要希望藉由科學儀器之試驗分析,瞭解目前台灣地區巿販手染服飾商品, 在耐摩擦、耐日光、耐水洗等項目,染色堅牢度之優劣程度。 1.首先取得全省19家業者,31件試樣,做為此次研究之試驗樣布。商品種類包含有: 上衣9點、長褲3點、長衫2點、壁掛2點、背心2點、裙子1點、桌墊1點,共20件商 品。另11件商品為業者無條件提供。 2.委託財團法人中國紡織工業研究中心進行測試。採用中國國家標準CNS染色堅牢度 檢驗法通則中之: CNS 1494 L3027 A-5耐水洗染色堅牢度試驗方法 CNS 1499 L3032 A型耐摩擦染色堅牢度試驗方法 CNS 3845 L3074 耐日光染色堅牢度試驗方法等三項為主。 3.依據CNS 1494 L3027 A-5耐水洗堅牢度變褪色項目中,發現堅牢度級數皆不高。表 示試樣在經過耐水洗試驗後均容易產生變褪色情形。而在耐水洗堅牢度另一項目之染污中, 堅牢度優劣差別極大。堅牢度高者絕大部份使用的是反應性染料。由此可知,反應性染料染 著於棉纖維後比直接性與繪染染料,在洗滌時較不容易污染其他纖維。 4.依據CNS 1499 L3032 A型耐摩擦染色堅牢度試驗方法中之乾式耐摩擦堅牢度試驗結 果,顯示堅牢度最低者為3-4級。而此件試樣布所使用的染料為繪染染料。因此發現,繪染 染料在乾燥狀態下的耐摩擦堅牢度較直接性染料與反應性染料最弱。 5.依據CNS 3845 L3074 耐日光染色堅牢度試驗結果,耐光堅牢度最高有達4級者,但 其中也有4件僅有1級的堅牢度。比較堅牢度1級、1-2級及2級的7件試樣中的基本資料 後發現,7件試樣所使用的染料,全數為直接性染料。這是否意味著直接性染料其耐日光堅 牢度較不理想。 |
英文摘要 | This study was to investigate the rubbing fastness, light fastness and washing fastness of hand-dyeing fashions and dyeing products. The results are as follows. 1.There are 31 samples from 19 dyers for this testing. The samples are included 9 points on the upper clothes; 3 points on trousers; 2 points on shirts; 2 points on wall hangings; 2 points on jackets; one point on skirt and one point on table-cloth. 2.This testing was done by The Textile Industry Research center of china, and the method of this testing was the dyeing fastness of CNS, the rules are as follows. a. CNS 1494 L3027 A-5 b. CNS 1499 L3032 A c. CNS 3845 L3074 A 3.According to CNS 1494 L3027 in the testing of color degenerating, the result of washing fastness grade was lower. This shows that colors by the testing of washing fastness were degenerated easily. Also in another pollution items of washing fastness, the quality distinction of fastness was very high. Obviously, the function to be fasten higher was the effect of reactive dyestuff. Therefore, the reactive dyestuff was better than direct dyestuff and pigment resin color when in the cotton fiber dyeing. 4.According to CNS 1499 L3032 A in the testing of fastness, the result of the fastness shows that the lowest grade of fastness was 3-4 grade, and pigment resin color was used in this testing too. Therefore, we found that in a dryer condition the rubbing fastness of pigment resin color was weaken than the direct dyestuff and reactive dyestuff. 5.According to CNS 3845 L3074 in the testing of light fastness, the result of the fastness shows that the highest grade of the fastness was 4 grades. There are 7 samples in the testing of direct dyestuff, but the fastness grade were very low in the result. Therefore, we found that the direct dyestuff in the testing of light fastness was ineffective. |
本系統中英文摘要資訊取自各篇刊載內容。