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題 名 | 中草藥在皮膚保養品之應用開發=Development of the Chinese Herbal Medicines Applications on Skin Care Products |
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作 者 | 陳榮秀; | 書刊名 | 中醫藥年報 |
卷 期 | 光碟版1:10 2012.10[民101.10] |
頁 次 | 頁518-579 |
專 輯 | 中醫藥產業應用開發 |
分類號 | 418.5 |
關鍵詞 | 中草藥; 皮膚保養品; 有效性; 安全性; 應用開發; Chinese herbs; Cosmetics; Efficacy; Safety; Application; |
語 文 | 中文(Chinese) |
中文摘要 | 皮膚保養品的使用已成為生活的一部份,全球化粧品與美容相關市場高達 2仟億美元,且以每年 7%速度成長,超越世界 GDP成長率的兩倍之多。化粧品市場之成長主要來自產品功效之提昇,利用中草藥理論記載完整的先天優勢以及現代科技的反覆驗證,使傳統醫學與現代美容科技整合,不但可使傳統中草藥永續發展,且為世界潮流發展趨勢。中草藥與生活文化間多樣性利用之研究,以漢方化粧品為出發點,可說是連接傳統中草藥及現代皮膚科學的重要橋樑。依整體護膚功效分析,與護膚產品相關的基本功能大致可分為抗老、保濕、美白、防曬等。本計畫建立中草藥應用於皮膚保養品之有效性驗證系統,並評估各種中草藥材應用於化粧品之安全性,提供未來中草藥應用於皮膚保養品開發之參考。 本研究挑選 25種中草藥,在抗氧化分析方面,各中草藥之粗萃物在清除 DPPH自由基能力之結果,以欖仁葉具有最佳的清除率。在酪胺酸酶活性評估顯示牡丹皮與欖仁葉粗萃物,其抑制率最佳。此外荷葉、紫蘇葉、金銀花、牡丹皮、欖仁葉、菟絲子等具有較強之紫外線 B(UVB)吸收效果,未來具有開發在防曬產品。菟絲子、容水沉香、柿葉、覆盆子、欖仁葉等具 DNA保護效果可應用於防曬及抗老化保養品。保水能力測試結果顯示,血竭、柿葉及牡丹皮等具有應用價值。在抑菌作用之試驗結果顯示牡丹皮的萃取物對於金黃色葡萄球菌具有中度活性的抑菌作用。 在安全性之分析結果,較具有細胞毒性及刺激性的中草藥包含決明子、蓮子心、樟芝、覆盆子、木香等,因此在使用時宜注意其使用劑量。 |
英文摘要 | The global cosmetic market was estimated up to 200 billions US dollars, and was growing up at a rate of 7% per year. It was two times of the GDP growing rate. The major products among the cosmetic martets are antiaging, skin moisturizer, whitening and sunscreen. Since the additions of plant extracts into cosmetics are popular in Europe and America. In order to establish a competitive product, the goal of this proposal is focused on the application of Chinese herbs on cosmetics. This study was aimed to evaluate the antioxidative activities of twety-five herbal plants. The results showed that all extracts obtained antioxidative abilities and their effects depended strongly on their concentrations. Terminalia catappa had the greatest DPPH radical scavenging effect. Paeonia suffruticosa and Terminalia catappa exhibited potent inhibitory effects on tyrosinase at 1 mg/mL. Some materials such as Nelumbo nucifera, Perilla frutescens, Lonicera japonica, Paeonia suffruticosa, Terminalia catappand Cuscuta chinessis may be applied in the sunscreen products. Cuscuta chinessis, Aquilaria malaccensis, Diospyros kali, Rubus idaeus and Terminalia catappa may be used in the antiage products. In the water-maintence experiment, data showed that extracts of Daemonorops draco, Diospyros kali and Paeonia suffruticosa may become potential moisturizers. On the other hand, anti-bacterial effect of the ethanolic extract of Paeonia suffruticosa against Staphylococcus aurous was detected. The results presented in the safety assay showed that the ethanolic extracts of Cassia obtusifolia, Nelumbo nucifera, Antrodia camphorate, Rubus idaeus and Aucklandia lappamay contained cytotoxicity, therefore, it should be carefully evaluated when they are added in the cosmetic products. |
本系統中英文摘要資訊取自各篇刊載內容。