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題 名 | 斜坡上長波演化之探討=The Evolution of the Long Wave on Sloping Bottoms |
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作 者 | 林宇銜; 黃煌煇; 蕭士俊; | 書刊名 | 海洋工程學刊 |
卷 期 | 6:2 民95.11 |
頁 次 | 頁23-40 |
分類號 | 443 |
關鍵詞 | 長波; 淺攤動盪; 湧上; 碎波帶; Long wave; Surf-beat; Swash; Surf zone; |
語 文 | 中文(Chinese) |
中文摘要 | 本實驗係於國立成功大學水工試驗所大型斷面水槽進行,沿著水槽的等深段及淺化段配置九十三支波高計收集表面波的時序列訊號;另外設置三支溯升計以量測湧上區的波動型態以探討由一系列雙主頻波波群在碎波帶內所釋放出的長波對湧上區波動機制的影響,探討內容主要著重在改變入射波高、雙主頻波的虛擬中值頻率、波群頻率及坡度的定性比較。而本文呈現的實驗分析包含了經由快速傅立葉轉換後在波群頻率位置所得到的長波振幅、自由長波、溯升及無因次長短波振幅在空間中的演化特性。由實驗中發現,長波的生成機制主要與碎波帶寬度及入射波之大小成線性相關。再者,若斜坡上的平均碎波位置將對應到自由駐波的節點處,湧上區將產生最大振幅;反之,若平均碎波位置對應的是自由駐波的反節點,則湧上區之振幅將為最小。 |
英文摘要 | A series of physical experiments on 2-D long wave forcing by a time-varying breakpoint induced by bichromatic wave groups were conducted in a super wave flume at Tainan Hydraulics Laboratory by using ninety-three wave gauges along the wave flume and three run-up wires parallel to the sloping beach. The testing conditions cover a widespread range of incident wave heights, primary mean frequencies (short waves), group frequencies and three types of plane beaches. The data analyses include total long wave amplitudes, outgoing long wave amplitudes at the group frequency, shoreline run-up and the cross-shore structure in both normalized short and long wave amplitudes. Particularly, long wave forcing is dependent on the surf zone width and linearly dependent on the short wave amplitude. Furthermore, the maximum response occurs when the mean breakpoint coincides with the nodal point of free standing long wave at shoreline while the minimum response occurs when the mean breakpoint is in agreement with the anti-nodal point of free standing log wave at shoreline. |
本系統中英文摘要資訊取自各篇刊載內容。