頁籤選單縮合
題 名 | 常用衣料皮革其縫製角度對縫合性質與破壞模式之效應--牛皮革及合成皮革=Effect of the Sewing Angles of the Clothing Leather on Seaming Property and Fracture Model--Cowhide Leathers and Synthetic Leathers |
---|---|
作 者 | 鄭如伶; 廖元民; 陳鴻助; | 書刊名 | 紡織中心期刊 |
卷 期 | 9:4 1999.10[民88.10] |
頁 次 | 頁338-349 |
分類號 | 424.2 |
關鍵詞 | 牛皮革; 合成皮革; 縫製角度; 破壞模式; Cowhide leather; Synthetic leather; Sewing angle; Fracture model; |
語 文 | 中文(Chinese) |
中文摘要 | 本研究乃針對不同素材皮革之縫合性質予以探討之,對各種皮革基本特性瞭解後,再應用不同裁減角度之縫合變化、針密粗細及車縫線改變,試圖尋求皮革衣料在縫製時其最佳之縫合條件及破壞之模式。 結果顯示:牛皮革直向/直向縫合時,以40'S/3縫線、針密13針/吋縫製時有較佳之縫和強力;至於合成皮革在直向/直向,以50'S/3縫線、針密13針/吋縫製時有不錯之縫合強力。另牛皮革之破壞情形於低針密時,是以縫線遭受破壞居多;而高針密時,則由於皮革遭受針孔破壞,故其縫合破壞情形反而為皮革之破壞。此外, 合成皮革其直向[經向]縫合抗拉伸性質則較佳,而縫線支數超過40'S/3,縫線變細後,則其縫合破壞以縫線斷裂為主。 |
英文摘要 | The seam properties on different kinds of material leathers were investigated in this study. The final aims is trying to find out the best stitching density on different cutting angles, stitching density, the change of sewing yarn, different kinds of leather. Results revealed that the best condition of one cowhide leather on the vertical/vertical seaming strength is 40'S/3 x l3 stitches/inch, and vertical the other synthetic leather is 30'S/3 x l3 stitches/inch. On the low stitching density, the fracture model of the cowhide leather shows the sewing yarn broken. Contrary, the cowhide leather is ruptured on the high stitching density. Additionally, it is better that the vertical seaming tension of synthetic leather. If the yarn counts(Ne) is over 40' S/3, meaning finer, the main seaming fracture is caursing by sewing yam broken. |
本系統中英文摘要資訊取自各篇刊載內容。