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| 題 名 | 由山巔回望海角--從Lukus Qaxa貝珠衣重建泰雅族傳統知識=Looking Down at the Cape from the Mountain Top: Reconstruction of Atayal Traditional Knowledge Related to Lukus Qaxa (Shell Bead Clothing) |
|---|---|
| 作 者 | 悠蘭.多又; | 書刊名 | 博物館學季刊 |
| 卷 期 | 39:4 2025.10[民114.10] |
| 頁 次 | 頁95-117+119 |
| 分類號 | 536.3311 |
| 關鍵詞 | Lukus qaxa貝珠衣; 泰雅族; 原住民族傳統知識; 民族物質誌; 逆寫; Shell bead clothing; Atayal; Indigenous traditional knowledge; Ethnographic material culture; Writing back; |
| 語 文 | 中文(Chinese) |
| DOI | 10.6686/MuseQ.202510_39(4).0005 |
| 中文摘要 | lukus qaxa 專指泰雅族貝珠衣,或統稱各種貝珠文物。百年前泰雅族被 定義為山居民族,然而典藏在博物館由泰雅族製作的貝珠文物,如長衣、 短衣、單布、頭冠、耳飾、頸飾、腕飾、腰帶、前遮片、脛飾等都利用 qaxa 貝珠製成。這些存世的 lukus qaxa 貝珠衣文物如何在泰雅族人過去的 生活中被傳述,甚至發展出相關知識,值得探究。 本文以典藏在博物館的文物,由民族物質誌角度,追尋泰雅族的知識 體系構成,再探詢當代的民族文化定位。援引 Bill Ashcroft 等《逆寫帝國》 書中的逆寫概念,以我者書寫翻轉他者書寫,凸顯族人與博物館對於 lukus qaxa 貝珠衣理解上的差異,嘗試將族人對物件的認識與實踐經驗帶入並對 話,將泰雅族 lukus qaxa 物質誌重新定義。本文發現:一、追尋 qaxa 貝珠 的出處,極可能是秀姑巒溪出海口處的阿美族人、新竹一帶的漢人以及蘭 陽平原沿山地區的熟番(指噶瑪蘭人),經由交易而來。二、族人取得 qaxa 貝珠原先僅具經濟價值,經過族人進一步織作之後,除經濟價值外,再發 生文化價值,並發展出知識。三、初階織物 pinbtwan qaxa 貝珠布,採族語 pinbtwan 堆積、重疊或交接之意。四、織作 lukus qaxa 貝珠衣時,織女會在 腰間及肩部斷經線,藉此行為發生神聖性,也因此 lukus qaxa 貝珠衣之名在 族人間成為貝珠文物的統稱。五、觀察泰雅族各地區 lukus qaxa 貝珠衣的形 制、構成、織紋等,普同性非常高,顯現關於 lukus qaxa 貝珠衣的知識是單 一來源並保守不變,或是起源不同但趨同演化,值得日後進一步探討。 |
| 英文摘要 | A century ago, the Indigenous Atayal tribe was defined as a mountain-dwelling tribe based on academic research. However, in the past, the Atayal people frequently used shells and their shell bead clothing and ornaments have been preserved in museums where they are considered among the most valuable collections. Lukus qaxa is the Atayal name for the shell bead long shirt specifically. It is also a general term for all clothing and ornaments made using shell beads. However, the link between mountain communities and shell usage has not been clarified in previous research. The aim of this article was to uncover the Atayal knowledge related to lukus qaxa. Referring to Bill Ashcroft’s concept of “writing back,” previous academic findings on lukus qaxa were overturned. Through field work, the following results regarding lukus qaxa were obtained: 1. Qaxa (shell beads) likely originated from trade with the Amis people at the mouth of the Xiuguluan River, the Han Chinese people in the Hsinchu area, and the Kavalan people in the mountainous regions of Yilan. 2. Qaxa originally held only economic value for the Atayal people. However, through their use in woven textiles, these beads acquired cultural significance and fostered the development of related knowledge. 3. The first word in the Atayal term pinbtwan qaxa (single cloth) is derived from an Atayal word meaning “overlap” or “junction.” 4. When weaving lukus qaxa (shell bead clothing), the weaver must break the warp threads at the waist and shoulders, an act that is considered sacred. Consequently, lukus qaxa became the generic term for shell bead artifacts among the Atayal people. 5. Observations of lukus qaxa styles, compositions, and weaving patterns across dif- ferent Atayal regions revealed a high degree of uniformity. This suggests that the knowledge surrounding lukus qaxa either originated from a single source and has remained preserved and unchanged or is the result of convergent evolution. Further investigation is needed to further clarify its origins. |
本系統中英文摘要資訊取自各篇刊載內容。