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| 題 名 | 淺水異常波浪機制探討:卓群孤立波--以蘇澳浮標測站為例=Investigating the Generation Mechanism of Shallow Water Rogue Waves: An Outstanding Soliton--A Case Study of the Suao Buoy |
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| 作 者 | 李堉辰; 董東璟; | 書刊名 | 海岸及海洋工程學刊 |
| 卷 期 | 20:1/2 2024.11[民113.11] |
| 頁 次 | 頁45-55 |
| 分類號 | 443.19 |
| 關鍵詞 | Korteweg-de Vries方程式; 卓群孤立波; 非線性傅立葉轉換; 淺水異常波浪; Korteweg-de Vries equation; Outstanding soliton; Nonlinear fourier transform; Shallow water rogue waves; |
| 語 文 | 中文(Chinese) |
| DOI | 10.6266/JOCOE.202410_20(1_2).0004 |
| 中文摘要 | 異常波浪是海洋中突然出現的極端大浪,其定義為最大波高大於兩倍的示性波高。在臺灣近岸淺水海域,海岸時常會出現波高好幾公尺的突發巨浪,造成岸邊或海上人員傷亡,在臺灣俗稱「瘋狗浪」。海洋的異常波浪形成機制仍眾說紛紜。目前學術上對於深水異常波浪的發生機制為線性聚焦為主,但若波浪能量頻率聚焦的情況下可能會有調制不穩定的非線性現象發生。而在淺水條件下的異常波浪的發生機制的探討不多,最新研究發現如果在非線性孤立波頻譜中有判斷卓群孤立波(outstanding soliton)的存在可視為淺水異常波浪的發生的重要指標(Teutsch et al., 2023)。本研究使用了蘇澳浮標於2014年一整年的波浪資料,利用異常指數識別出異常波浪之案例,並以基於Korteweg-de Vries(KdV)方程式的非線性傅立葉轉換分析淺水波浪(kh < 1.363)時序列。經由分析結果發現若非線性孤立波頻譜中有卓群孤立波的存在,在此海況下有高機率是淺水異常波浪的情況。 |
| 英文摘要 | Rogue waves are sudden extreme waves in the ocean, which defined as waves with a maximum height exceeding twice of the significant wave height. In the coastal waters of Taiwan, such large sudden waves frequently occur, resulting in injuries or fatalities to people both offshore and nearshore. The generation mechanisms of in-situ rogue waves remain widely debated. Currently, the primary academic explanation for the occurrence of deep-water rogue waves is linear focusing, though nonlinear phenomena such as modulational instability can occur under unidirectional and narrow-banded seas. Meanwhile, the mechanisms of rogue wave formation in shallow water conditions are less explored. Recent research has discovered that the presence of an outstanding soliton in the nonlinear spectrum can be considered an important indicator of shallow water rogue waves (Teutsch et al., 2023). In this study, we use the wave data in 2014 obtained from the Suao buoy. All rogue wave data are identified by the abnormal index when it larger than two. Then we analyze time series under shallow water conditions (kh < 1.363) using the nonlinear Fourier transform (NFT) based on the Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) equation. The analysis results indicate that the presence of an outstanding soliton in the nonlinear spectrum corresponds to a higher probability of shallow water rogue wave occurrence in current case study. |
本系統中英文摘要資訊取自各篇刊載內容。