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題 名 | 非陡坡底床上碎波特性之非線性解析及印證=Nonlinear Analysis for the Breaking Wave Characteristic on Non-Steep Sloping Bottom and Verification |
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作 者 | 曾文哲; 陳陽益; 許弘莒; 程嘉彥; 陳冠宇; | 書刊名 | 海洋工程學刊 |
卷 期 | 9:2 2009.06[民98.12] |
頁 次 | 頁105-131 |
分類號 | 443.1 |
關鍵詞 | 碎波; Eulerian系統; Lagrangian系統; 流速勢函數; Breaking wave; Eulerian system; Lagrangian system; Velocity potential; |
語 文 | 中文(Chinese) |
中文摘要 | 對二度空間裡,前進於平緩坡度α底床上之週期性規則表面重力波,在聯合代表波浪本質的波浪尖銳度ε,作爲兩攝動參數展開下,本文引用已被印証之所得至ε^2階的Eulerian系統之流速勢函數的解析解與被轉換至對應的Lagrangian系統的非線性流場解析解,來描述波動由深至淺至碎波的時空連續演化,及進而理論解析推導出碎波的特性並與前人之試驗結果比較印證之。 |
英文摘要 | Because of shoaling, refraction, friction, and other effects, a surface-wave propagating on a gently sloping bottom of slope α will eventually break. In this paper, by nonlinearizing the problem and using a perturbation method, the analytical solution for the velocity potential is derived to the second order for the bottom slope α and the wave steepness ε in an Eulerian system. Then, the wave profile and the breaking wave characteristics are found by transforming the flow field into a Lagrangian system. By using the kinematic stability parameter (K.S.P.), new theoretical breaking wave characteristics are derived. Thus, the linear theories of other scholars are extended to breaking waves. Comparing the present analytical solution with the experimental study of other scholars shows reasonable agreement except that the breaking depth is underestimated. |
本系統中英文摘要資訊取自各篇刊載內容。