頁籤選單縮合
| 題 名 | 北宋文人飲食書寫的南方經驗=The South Experience in Food and Drink Writing by the Northern Sung Literati |
|---|---|
| 作 者 | 張蜀蕙; | 書刊名 | 淡江中文學報 |
| 卷 期 | 14 民95.06 |
| 頁 次 | 頁133-175 |
| 分類號 | 820.9051、820.9051 |
| 關鍵詞 | 蔡襄; 梅堯臣; 歐陽修; 蘇軾; 黃庭堅; 飲食; 荔枝; 南方; Tsai Hsiang; Mei Yao-chen; Ou-yang Hsiu; Su Shih; Huang Ting-chien; Food and drink; Litchi; The South; |
| 語 文 | 中文(Chinese) |
| 中文摘要 | 在文化學的探討裡，食物和飲食行為具有社會及文化意涵，飲食接受有著社會群體文化學習的運作機制，足以微觀整個社會群體。北宋的飲食環境有著孟元老《東京夢華錄》所說的時代背景：「八荒爭湊，萬國咸通。集四海之珍奇，皆歸市易；會寰宇之異味，悉在庖廚。」集四方飲食的繁華都城景象，此時文人對南方的飲食書寫如同博物誌，好以詩文、專論尋繹食材的身世，且加入了歷史的視角，有著當時經濟、農業和文化等環境的描寫。透過北宋文人對南方飲食的描述，可見南方食物被接受背後所代表南方被開發與南方文化被接受的情形。當他們飲啖南方食物，面對南方自然環境與飲食，無論他們的態度是有著怕被同化的恐懼，或是「不辭長作嶺南人」的愉悅，正是他們觀看南方、面對南方，這迥異於中土的文化、政治的空間，所具有真實的或想像的南方經驗，他們透過飲食接近南方土地，在飲食的論述上呈現他們與南方的關係。本文以「飲食」為主題，並不細究當時飲食烹調的精細與技藝，而是探討這些南方之物，是如何端上文人的餐桌，由生腥、臊澀變成甘美，這片森然可怖土地生養的山珍海味，如何馴服北人的味覺，進而誘發宋人思索飲食與人生的課題，由味覺經驗開展出美學的思考。南食不僅提供口腹上的饜足，也讓宋人由生活在南方自然、物候、飲食的環境，有著南食北運等種種文化上的省思，本文也探究南方的人才與南方的物產一道來到中土，擠身中央時如何看待他們生長的「南方」的幽微心情。 |
| 英文摘要 | In culturology, food and the act of eating are full of social and cultural meanings. The reception of food and drink is related to the mechanism of social culture cultivating, and this could be seen as a microcosm of the whole society. The situation of food and drink at Northern Sung Dynasty has its time background as presented in Meng Yuan-Lao's "The Dream of Hua in the Eastern Capital," Coming from all directions, communicating with every country. The delicacies from many seas belong to the market; the different food from the universe is in the kitchen. This is the prosperous image of the capital, and at that time the writing of food and drink from the literati are just like the encyclopedia; they liked to find out the origin of the food material with poetry and articles; also added the historical perspective, including the environmental depiction of economics, agriculture, and culture of the time. Through the description of Southern food and drink from the literati of Northern Sung Dynasty, we can tell that the acceptation of Southern food represents the development of the South and the acceptation of Southern culture. No matter they feared for the assimilation or enjoyed to be like Southern people, when they were eating Southern food, facing the Southern environment and diet, this is how they viewing the South, facing the South, the space different from Central Plains in culture and politics, the real Southern experience and the imagined South. They got close to the South through food and drink, and displayed their relationship with the South in their discourse on food and drink. This research focus on "food and drink," but not studying the cooking skill at that time, instead, exploring how Southern food appeared on the dinning table of the literati, from raw and astringent to sweet and refreshing; and how these delicacies bred by this scary land tamed the taste of the Northern people, furthermore, to arouse Sung people pondering on the issue of food and drink and life; to open the aesthetic thinking from the sense of taste. Southern food didn't merely feed the Sung people, but also provide the cultural reflection on the Southern nature, climate, food and drink, and the transportation of the food. In addition, this research also discusses the subtle feelings of the Southern literati, who came to Central Plains with the Southern commodity, and how they view the South which nurtured them. |
本系統中英文摘要資訊取自各篇刊載內容。