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題 名 | 明代平民服飾的流行風尚與士大夫的反應=Changing of Fashion in Clothes and Reaction of the Gentry in Ming Dynasty |
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作 者 | 巫仁恕; | 書刊名 | 新史學 |
卷 期 | 10:3 1999.09[民88.09] |
頁 次 | 頁55-109 |
分類號 | 538.1 |
關鍵詞 | 平民服飾; 流行風尚; 消費心態; 士大夫; Clothes; Fashion; Consumerism; Gentry; |
語 文 | 中文(Chinese) |
中文摘要 | 本文論述可分為兩個部份,首先是關於服飾風尚的變化方面。十六世紀以後,平 民服飾上發生變化,反映了明代的社會已有相當大的變動。當時的服飾已形成流 行風尚,風尚形式多樣化,甚至有模仿與偕越之風,這也代表當時平民在消費心 態上,已逐漸意識到服飾是身份地位的象徵,而欲藉此彰顯其身份地位,以努力 打破舊有的社會等級。 其次,則是觀察土大夫對這類現象的反應。尤其是士人階層所受到的影響最 大,反應也最明顯。明代中期以後相對其他社會階層經濟地位的提升,士人階層 的社會地位卻大不如前,左面對其他人爭相模仿士人服飾時,遂產生強烈地危機 意識。為此士大夫採取兩方面的對應,一是採取實際行動,要求中央與地方官重 申禁令;另一方面則是口誅筆伐,提出「古禮」之名或引用傳統的「服妖」說來 批評。當兩種方式都無法發揮效果時,士大夫只有更積極地自創新風格、新形式 的服飾衣冠,以重新塑造自己的身份與地位。同時也從美學的角度自創「雅、俗」 之誤,以區別士人服飾的品味與眾不同。在這些社會階層互相競爭與眾聲喧嘩之 中,明末的士庶冠服呈現了多樣、多變的風貌。 |
英文摘要 | This paper is divided into two parts. The first part deals with the changing of fashion in clothes. Since the 16th century, some sartorial changes had been found in the ways in which Ming commoners dressed themselves, a clear indication of a society in transition. As fashion styles became increasingly diversified, more and more, common people imitated those of the elite. One of the results was the obfuscation of social strata. Seeing fashion as a symbol of social status, ordinary people used it to undermine traditional social boundaries. The second part discusses the reaction of the most affected gentry to this new phenomenon. Since the fall of the gentry's social status after the mid-Ming dynasty was accompanied by the rise of the other social strata in economic status, the imitation of their clothing styles by other social strata gave them a deep sense of crisis. They adopted two strategies to deal with the situation. First, they appealed to government to reaffirm old regulations prescribing correspondence of social ranks with clothing styles. In addition, they wrote articles citing ancient rituals and traditional attacks of eccentric clothes to criticize this trespassing on the part of commoners. When both strategies failed, they renovated their own fashion styles in order to assert their social status. They also made the aesthetic distinction between elegance and vulgarity to highlight the difference between tastes of the gentry and those of others. In the midst of this competition and self-assertion, the late Ming fashion of clothes become more and more diversified. |
本系統中英文摘要資訊取自各篇刊載內容。