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題名 | 瘋狗浪的可能機制=Possible Explanations for Coastal Giant Waves |
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作 者 | 陳冠宇; | 書刊名 | 海洋工程學刊 |
卷期 | 2:1 2002.07[民91.07] |
頁次 | 頁93-106 |
分類號 | 351.941 |
關鍵詞 | 瘋狗浪; 非線性演化; Coastal giant wave; Nonlinear evolution; |
語文 | 中文(Chinese) |
中文摘要 | 本文係就目前已知可能產生特大波浪的機制, 逐一探討其應用在近岸特大波浪(瘋狗浪)的可能性。在依據學者訪問瘋狗浪現場目擊者所描述的波浪特徵, 及參考其相關的理論與實測研究後,我們將可能性較低的機制一一剔除, 最後就波群非線性演化與一維波浪疊加聚合(coalescence)兩種機制作進一步的數值試驗。試驗結果, 證實兩種機制都會產生特大波浪,但因後者所產生之巨波的維持時間甚短, 因此初步認定波群的非線性演化最可能是瘋狗浪發生的原因。 |
英文摘要 | In this study, all theories that have been proposed to explain the generation of freak waves are surveyed and applied to coastal giant waves, the so-called rabid waves. Based on wave features provided by coastal giant wave survivors, as well as field measurements of giant waves, majority of the theories are found to be not feasible for coastal giant wave phenomena, except for two theories - the nonlinear evolution of one-dimensional wave groups and the one-dimensional wave-wave coalescence. These two theories are then further investigated with numerical experiments. Their potential of generating extra-large waves is verified. However, the lasting time of giant waves produced by the later theory is much shorter than that by the former. Hence, we temporarily suggest that the nonlinear evolution of wave groups is the most likely mechanism for generating coastal giant waves. |
本系統之摘要資訊系依該期刊論文摘要之資訊為主。