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題名 | 棕櫚醯基四胜肽乳霜皮膚保養功效之評估研究=Study on the Potential Skin Care Efficacy of Palmitoyl-Tetrapeptide Cream |
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作者 | 張聰民; 卓小嵐; | 書刊名 | 遠東學報 |
卷期 | 28:3 2011.09[民100.09] |
頁次 | 頁197-207 |
分類號 | 466.7 |
關鍵詞 | 皮膚老化; 棕櫚醯基四胜肽; 抗老化; 美白; Skin aging; Palmitoyl-tetrapeptide; Anti-aging; Whitening; |
語文 | 中文(Chinese) |
中文摘要 | 造成皮膚老化的因素有內在因素如(基因結構,內分泌)與外在因素如(紫外線、化學品),隨著年齡的增長,導致皮膚無法繼續保有彈性及柔嫩,進而產生細紋、乾燥、皺紋及膚色不均勻色澤等老化的徵兆。市面上胜肽保養品宣稱可以減少皮膚細紋,防止皮膚老化,然而卻缺乏科學研究之證實。本研究將棕櫚醯基-四胜肽(Palmitoyl-tetrapeptide)添加入化妝品配方中,自製乳霜黏度為3450cps,屬於不油膩延展性霜體。經過安定性與皮膚貼布試驗後,再利用多功能皮膚檢測系統評估棕櫚醯基-四胜肽乳霜之抗老化與美白功效。 本研究之三十位女性受試者(年齡範圍30~60歲),每日兩次塗抹緊緻乳霜於全臉皮膚,每週以多功能皮膚檢測系統之彈性測定探頭及黑紅色素測定探頭,測得皮膚彈性指數值(R2)、(R5)、(R7)與皮膚黑色素含量,並且計算其變化百分率。研究結果顯示,30位受試者使用棕櫚醯基四胜肽乳霜後,彈性指數R2、R5與R7皆有增加的趨勢。此外,受測者的皮膚黑色素則無降低趨勢,即棕櫚醯基四胜肽的乳霜具有增進皮膚彈性的保養功效,但無皮膚美白效果;至於棕櫚醯基四胜肽的抗老作用機制,則有待未來進一步探究。 |
英文摘要 | There are several intrinsic factors e.g. (gene structure,endocrine) and extrinsic factors e.g. (ultraviolet light and chemicals) contributed to skin ageing. With increasing age, the skin undergoes degenerative changes include loss of elasticity, degeneration of elastic fiber, reduction in collagen and hyaluronic acid content, ultimately leading to increased wrinkling, atrophy, dryness and irregular pigmentation. Commercial peptide-containing skin care products are claimed to prevent skin aging and decrease fine wrinkles. However, there is no scientific report about the potential skin care effects of peptide-containing skin care products. A stable cream containing palmitoyl-tetrapepeptide was prepared and the viscosity was 3450 cps, which mean that cream is an un-oily external cream. After stabilization test and skin patch test, the potential anti-aging and whitening efficacy of the cream was evaluated by multiple-function skin determination system. Thirty female volunteers (age30~60) applied the cream to face twice daily, the elastic parameters and melanin content of skin were determined by specific probes, and variation percentage of each parameter was counted. The skin elastic parameters R2, R5 and R7 were increased weekly, but the melanin content was not decreased after application of the cream. Our preliminary results indicated that the palmitoyl-tetrapeptide-containing cream improve the face skin elasticity but have no skin whitening effect. Further study will be performed to elucidate the possible anti-aging mechanisms of palmitoyl-tetrapeptide in the near future. |
本系統之摘要資訊系依該期刊論文摘要之資訊為主。