查詢結果分析
來源資料
第1筆 /總和 1 筆
/ 1 筆
頁籤選單縮合
題名 | 寡人好貨:乾隆帝與姑蘇繁華=The Sovereign's Superior Goods: The Qianlong Emperor and Suzhou's Prosperity |
---|---|
作者 | 賴惠敏; | 書刊名 | 中央研究院近代史研究所集刊 |
卷期 | 50 民94.12 |
頁次 | 頁185-233 |
分類號 | 478.2 |
關鍵詞 | 蘇州織造局; 絲綢; 官員營運; 江南三織造局; 行會; 風尚; Suzhou textile; manufactory; Official operations; Jiangnan textile tri-manufactories; Silks; Society; Customs; |
語文 | 中文(Chinese) |
中文摘要 | 本文係利用清宮的檔案,探討乾隆皇帝個人的喜好,影響蘇州的社會文化發展。乾隆皇帝以蘇州織造局為中心,成做各種刺繡、玉器、銅器,以及無數的古玩。Evelyn S. Rawski認為,清初頒布有關髮式、服飾、語言和戰術的法令,以界定征服菁英之獨特認同。本文透過織造局成做象徵滿族配飾的班指、荷包、撒袋,可知乾隆皇帝強調「國語騎射」精神。除此之外,乾隆皇帝為了拉攏蒙古、西藏關係,也由織造局大量製作藏傳佛教的器物,並努力仿做西方的器物,可見其發展多元文化的意圖。 自清初以來,江南三織造局造辦綢緞,還負責辦理雕琢玉器、墨、蓆、金箔等宮廷所需,其原料來自新疆的玉石、安徽的石墨、雲南的金子等,凡此皆促進蘇州手工業行會發展。 蘇州因水運交通方便,吸引邊疆雲貴、四川地區的官員到此採購人參、絲綢等。或有官員投資製造業,或進行長程貿易,或開設店鋪。各地官員至蘇州採辦貢品的金額達數萬兩,足見蘇州不但是專業生產區,也是精緻商品的銷售重鎮。 過去大家都只注意揚州鹽商和廣州行商的生活奢華,《姑蘇繁華圖》則呈現各式綢緞、玉器、硯、扇、人參藥鋪店鋪,其繁華程度應不亞於揚州和廣州兩地。因此乾隆皇帝以蘇州織造局為中心,促進當地物質文化的發展,提供我們探討清代文化史新的視野。 |
英文摘要 | This article uses Qing palace archives to explore the Qianlong emperor's personal likes and their influence on the social and cultural development of Suzhou. Under the Qianlong emperor, the Imperial Textile Manufactory of Suzhou became the center for the production of various types of embroidery, jade ware, bronze ware, and countless other curios. Evelyn S. Rawski has found that early on the Qing promulgated laws governing hairstyle, dress, language and martial arts in order to define the unique identity of the conquering elite. This article examines the Imperial Textile Manufactory's production of symbolic accoutrements of Manchu identity such as archery thumb rings, fur bags used by bannermen to carry provisions, and quivers, to understand Qianlong's emphasis on Manchu spirit as embodied in the phrase “Manchu speech, riding, and hunting” (國語騎射). Aside from this, the Qianlong emperor's interest in diverse cultures was evident in the manufacture of Buddhist articles which were used to draw the Mongols and Tibetans closer to him, and also his great efforts to imitate Western-style items. From the early Qing onward, the Jiangnan Textile Tri-Manufactories (including Suzhou's Manufactory) produced silks and satins, and were also responsible for carving jade objects, ink stones, mats, gold foil, and other items needed in the palace. The raw materials needed to produce these items included Xinjiang jade, Anhui graphite, and Yunnan gold, all of which promoted the development of Suzhou's handicraft industries. Because Suzhou was conveniently located with good water transportation, it attracted officials from the Yunnan, Guizhou, and Sichuan border regions, who purchased ginseng, silk, and other goods there. Officials also invested in production, engaged in long-distance trade, and opened shops. Officials from various regions purchased tens of thousands of tribute items, demonstrating that Suzhou was not only a specialized production region; it was also a strategic market for high end commercial items. Most scholars have emphasized the luxurious lifestyles of the Yangzhou salt merchants and the Hong merchants of Guangzhou, but the Gu Su Fanhua Tu (Pictorial of Flourishing Suzhou), which illustrated a rich variety of silks and satins, jade ware, ink slabs, fans, ginseng and medicine shops, indicates that the lifestyles of Suzhou elites were no less luxurious than those of Yangzhou or Guangzhou. Because of this the Qianlong emperor used the Suzhou manufactories as a key to promoting the development of the area's material culture, thus providing us an invaluable perspective on Qing cultural history. |
本系統之摘要資訊系依該期刊論文摘要之資訊為主。